Past Guest Speakers - 2002

"From Prasky to Poutine: A window into other cultures"
presented by
Judy Hevrdejs
Feature writer, Chicago Tribune
Saturday, Nov. 16, 2002

It was a prasky sandwich that did it. The one inside her locker at school in the small, northern Illinois town of Antioch. It didn't look like the peanut butter and jelly concoctions of the other kids and boy it sure didn't smell like them. The garlic in that sausage perfumed an entire first grade glass. It was then, Judy Hevrdejs (rhymes with everydays) realized her family ate foods that were a lot different than other folks in town. Prasky. Svickova. Houska. Kolachy.


BEFORE (above)      Discussing the baking time with Don Newcomb (below)

Recipe for Houska CLICK HERE

She hasn't stopped eating differently ever since. Sure, she loves a great hamburger, milkshake, pot roast and peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich (preferably on spongy white bread or lightly grilled), but Hevrdejs' travels and work and family have taken her to tables around the world. In the process, she has not only found good food but found out a lot about people and their cultures. Join us as she shares her eclectic and insightful perspective. And she will bring samples of some of her favorite foods.

Before joining the Chicago Tribune's Q staff as a feature writer in August 2002, Judy Hevrdejs had been a feature writer in the paper's Tempo section since February 1999. Prior to that, Hevrdejs had been half of the Chicago Tribune's INC. column, a post she held since September 1994. Before INC., she was the paper's consumer travel reporter, a job she took on following three years in the Tribune's Schaumburg bureau as editor of its northwest feature section.

Hevrdejs began her journalism career as a reporter and food writer with the Chicago Daily News. When the paper closed in 1978, she joined the Chicago Tribune as a food consumer reporter and launched the "Cheap Eats" column. In 1982, she moved to Mexico City to become the features editor of the Mexico City News, an English-language publication. She returned to Chicago in 1986, writing on a freelance basis for several publications including the Chicago Tribune, People and Time magazines. She rejoined the Tribune in late 1990.

Hevrdejs is a native of north suburban Antioch and a graduate of Carmel High School in Mundelein and the University of Illinois-Champaign.

Czech Sources CLICK HERE


The Shell-Shocked History of Peanuts
or
How the Lowly Goober Pea Conquered America

presented by
Andrew F. Smith
Culinary Historian, Author, Editor, Teacher
Saturday, June 15, 2002
Dr. Kraig
The peanut was not slated for success. It originated in central South America, but was never a particularly important crop in the pre-Columbian Americas. When the Europeans arrived in America, they did not like peanuts, so they decided to feed them to their slaves. How the peanut changed from a slave food to mainstream staple is a nutty tale packed with action and filled with African-Americans and Italian-Americans, vendors and captains of industry, grocers and scientists, commercial artists and hard-hitting advertisers, health-food nuts and anti-nut food allergists. Our presenter, Andrew F. Smith has lectured to the Culinary Historians of Chicago twice before: on "The Tomato in America," and on "Pure Ketchup," which are also titles of the books he has written on these subjects. He will have for sale copies of his latest book, "Peanuts / The Illustrious History of the Goober Pea." ($29.95) -- please contact cal60035@aol.com to reserve a copy or if you can't make the meeting -- arrange for a copy to be autographed and mailed. Dishes made from historic recipes in his book will be served by our volunteers Dawn McGlone, and Barb Olson, with peanut "set decorations by" Sher Blair.

Peanut Butter Sandwich

Mr. Smith, a frequent guest on food-related television and radio shows, teaches culinary history at the New School University in Manhattan and has written and edited several books on food history. He has also delivered more than five-hundred presentations on food history topics at local,national and international conferences. Mr. Smith is currently the general editor for the University of Illinois' Food Series, and is editor-in-chief of Oxford University Press' "Encyclopedia on American Food and Drink," scheduled for publication in 2004.


"The French Culinary Boot Camp"
(or "How I Survived My Apprenticeship")

presented by
Chef Jacquy Pfeiffer
Co-owner, French Pastry School, Inc., Chicago
Saturday, March 16, 2002
If you thought becoming a brain surgeon was tough, wait 'til you hear what it takes to pass the pastry boards in France. Join us as Chef Jacquy Pfeiffer, now one of our country's most acclaimed pastry chefs, shares memories of his classic apprenticeship. And if that doesn't take the cake, Chef Pfeiffer will also talk about the history of French pastry, and discuss French culinary trends.

Chef Pfeiffer began his career at the age of 15 as an apprentice at a pastry shop in Strasbourg, France. Later, while in college, he earned the title of Best Apprentice of his State. From then on, his life has been on a sweet roll. Among his career highlights:

  • In 1988, as pastry chef for the Sultan of Brueni, the richest man in the world, Chef Pfeiffer created desserts for palace dinners and lavish state banquets for up to 15,000 guests.
  • Voted one of the "Top 10 Pastry Chefs in the United States" by Chocolatier and Pastry Art & Design magazines (1996-97).
  • In 1996, as captain of the U.S. World Pastry Cup Team, Chef Pfeiffer led his teammates to a silver medal victory.
  • In 1993, he became the executive pastry chef at the Sheraton Chicago Hotel and Towers, where he baked President Clinton's 50th Birthday cake during the Democratic National Convention.
  • Today, Chef Pfeiffer and the eminent pastry chef Sebastien Canonne, are co-owners of the French Pastry School in Chicago. The professional pastry school offers a certified 24-week program, "L'Arte de la Patisserie."


    "Let There Be Sausage"
    A Presentation by Randy Ream
    Owner, Elburn Market, Inc., Elburn, IL
    Saturday, February 9, 2002

    Randy Ream's Elburn Market is the perfect example of his Illinois town's motto: better, not bigger. The market sits along the quaint, Main-Street strip in downtown Elburn still occupying the original, red-brick storefront that was built as a butcher shop near the turn of the century. This isn't the home of a corporate giant. Rather, it is a meat market with a long, family-run history where a commitment to impeccable taste and quality ingredients has drawn a loyal following from towns near and far. From bologna, boudin, bangers and brats to teriyaki jerky, brats made of turkey, wieners and wursts -- Randy Ream, who spoke to the Culinary Historians on Sunday, February 9th, oversees it all with integrity and passion.

    Unfortunately Randy couldn't bring his entire market to display during his lecture, "Let There Be Sausage," but he did bring plenty of tales (and treats!) to lure listeners back to his home base, located about 55 miles west of Chicago. Anyone who succumbed likely noticed that the land surrounding Elburn has just a pinch of rolling hills, a sprinkling of residential developments and several dashes of farm country -- rows of corn stripe the roadside acreage, the John Deer store is lined up with tractors for sale and highway signs along Route 47 advertise pine and apple orchards and Kupers Pumpkin Farm. For city dwellers and suburbanites alike, Elburn is noticeably different than Chicago's nearer siblings. This Kane-county piece of country, far away from the hustle and bustle of urban life, makes most visitors feel like they're on vacation.

    Although on most vacations, you won't find an incredible meat market like Ream's. With its red and white striped awning and brick fa°ade at 128 Main Street, Ream's Elburn Market to this day looks surprisingly similar to Randy's prized store photo (circa 1908), which he brought to his CHC speaking engagement. Visit in person and you'll notice that even the interior of Ream's holds pieces of history: a pressed-tin ceiling, an old fashioned butcher-block table and a bright red meat grinder from the early days on display in the window.

    The two-store-front building in which Ream's is located was purchased from the original builder by Fred Schwartz in 1908 and later by Randy's father in 1954. Randy explained, "I had the best of all worlds as a kid. I lived above a meat market, I could eat cold hotdogs whenever I wanted and I had a dime store next door __ and I have the teeth the prove it!"

    Although Randy's work at the market began as early as age 6, when he managed sweeping the storeroom floors, Randy initially pursued a degree in music education from Western Illinois University in the late seventies and ran away to "join the circus" as a jazz saxophonist (the International All-Star Circus in Sarasota, Florida, that is). When he decided to return to the family business in 1981, he made a change that to this day makes Ream's impressively unique -- he added a smokehouse. Today, that smokehouse is used to produce homemade smoked meats and sausages including hams, bacons and jerkies and brats, salamis and snack sticks.

    One look around when you visit Ream's and you'll have no doubt you've come to the right place -- not just for smoked meats and sausages, but also for beef, pork, lamb, poultry, fresh sausages and even fish. The walls of this meat lover's paradise are lined with over 100 of Randy's awards: National Grand Champion Bratwurst Maker, member of the American Association of Meat Processors' Cured Meat Hall of Fame, and Grand Champion for Meat Snack Foods in Wisconsin, just to name a few.

    As Randy presented intriguing facts about sausage history to the Culinary Historians, scents of his market treats wafted through the room. Randy explained that in the early days, sausages were named after the towns in which they were made: salamis in Salamis, Frankfurters in Frankfurt, vieners in Vienna and bologna in Bologna. At that time, and still today, most ethnic differences in sausage show up in spice variations across different recipes, such as the characteristic sharpness of Italian sausage studded with pepper and fennel. Germans, with their superior trade routes, built a reputation as the best sausage makers due to both their spicing techniques and their cooking methods. It was the German's who discovered how to convert nitrate to nitrite, thereby speeding up the meat curing process, and the precise tip-blade speed to make a proper emulsion for sausage filling.

    As the nearly 50 types of sausage listed on Randy's product handout attest, there are many different types of sausage. As he explained, there are fresh sausages -- basically a mixture of ground meat, salt and seasonings -- cooked sausages, smoked sausages (which are usually smoked then cooked), and semi-dry and dry sausages (fermented).

    In the "old days," said Randy, the bacteria in a meat plant was an important part of quality sausage making. Old sausage was actually often saved to "feed" new sausage. These days Randy admits that it's hard to get away from additives and preservatives altogether because of the way we shop today -- we just don't shop everyday so we require some level of longevity in our meat purchases.

    Yet Randy still holds onto the old fashioned, honest way of making sausage while incorporating necessary, modern day additions and efficiency changes. Randy's cure excellerator speeds along the production process without compromising quality. He explained, "We use a small amount which makes the meat convert quicker." (just a 1/2 oz per 100 pounds of meat).

    Randy didn't hesitate when asked about the future of the sausage market in the face of recent health concerns. He just throws out the sausage version of his "only eat ice cream for dessert" advice -- "If you want to save 20% of the fat, I suggest you chop off a third of your hotdog and throw it away and have two thirds of a really good hotdog. You might as well die with a smile on your face!" Randy also recommends enjoying something delicious and "real" before buying a mass-produced supermarket sausage from a huge company. "These giants aren't going out of business and interestingly consumers are demanding less and less from them."

    And as Randy showed the Culinary Historians slides of his production process, the science of sausage making was immediately apparent. "I know ten ways to make sausages and about a 1,000 ways not to," Randy attests. Large vats have to be filled with specific ratios of meat protein, fat and water to create a perfect matrix. Water is added in the form of Ice so that the heat of the mixing blades doesn't break down this matrix. With one piece of machinery costing upwards of $45,000, this isn't an undertaking for a sausage novice. Referring to the expensive sausage mixer, Randy jokes, "And it only cost me about $90,000 to learn how to use it!"

    With the spread of big business, we're lucky to have artisans like Randy who still believe in making food products the old-fashioned way. And although Randy admits, "I'm getting smarter as this goes on," citing ways in which he has improved and sped up the traditional sausage making procedures, he still maintains a commitment to taste and natural products. When asked how he would dress his perfect hotdog, Randy jokes, "First, I'd suggest only Reams hotdogs!" and then continues, "I eat it right out of the smoke house, pop it out and eat it right there." So pretend you're on vacation and heed the market's advice, "On busy days, please take a number." Take the drive and you too will by exclaiming, "let there be sausage!"


    THE HISTORICAL RISE OF DOUGH
    Presented by Pamela Fitzpatrick
    Executive Baker, Fox & Obel Food Market
    Saturday, January 12, 2002

    Program Chairman Scott Warner writes:
    "No matter how you slice it, bread has sandwiched itself deeply in human history ... we learn about bread's ancient mythologies, and gain some grains of wisdom about the history of bread making ... also some crusts of information about the differences in bread types unleavened flatbreads to yeast breads and where they arose and were used through history.

    "Pamela Fitzpatrick, one of the nation's most eminent bread bakers, has certainly kneaded her way to the top of her field. Before joining the recently opened food emporium Fox & Obel, as executive baker, Ms. Fitzpatrick was director of product operations for Corner Bakery where, among her duties, she trained all market bakers for the multi-unit concept.

    "In 1989, Ms. Fitzpatrick abandoned a successful advertising career to become a baker's apprentice at the newly opened La Brea Bakery in Los Angeles. That bakery quickly become one of the nation's top bakeries, run by the renowned Nancy Silverton.

    "Besides rolling in dough each week, Ms. Fitzpatrick finds time to lecture on bread, and has been a featured speaker at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, and at the Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago, where she also served as technical consultant for the institution's permanent exhibit on the history of bread."

    Introducing Ms. Fitzpatrick, Warner assured CHC attendees that, "You are going to loave every minute of her talk."

    Ms. Fitzpatrick began her presentation, which she illustrated with slides, with the disclaimer: "I am not a scholar, I am a baker." In that spirit, a baker's dozen or so highlights from her talk follow:

  • Bread has always been man's main form of sustenance. The search for wheat has lead to territorial conquests; a shortage of wheat has lead to revolutions. At some points in history, wages were paid in bread. Some cases in point: Julius Caesar distributed free wheat to the Romans, but in 44 B.C. the year of his assassination he reduced the number of Romans receiving free grain from 320,000 to 150,000, according to James Trager in "The Food Chronology" (Henry Holt and Company, 1995). By 269 B.C., Septimia Zenobia (also according to Trager), queen of Palmyra, conquered Eqypt, thereby gaining control of Rome's grain supply but not for long. By 272 B.C., the Roman emperor Aurelianus beseiged Palmyra, captured the queen who was forced to march in gold chains before the emperor's chariot. The emperor spared her life and, the following year, increased Rome's free daily bread ration to nearly 1.5 pounds per capita.

  • Throughout history bread has assumed great symbolic significance. For example, bread was often substituted for sacrificial animals. And, during the last supper, Christ created bread's role in the holy sacrament.

  • The traditional shapes of bread speak their own language. Pretzels are hands joined together in prayer. And, according to Martin Elkort in The Secret Life of Food (Jeremy P. Tarcher, 1991), croissants were invented in Austria in 1683, when Viennese bakers created a bun in the shape of a crescent, symbolizing the Turkish flag and the Austrian resistance in holding off the Turkish attack. "When a Viennese ate a croissant, he was eating the flag of Turkey," writes Elkort. The French baguette means "little rod," and refers to a conductor's baton or, some say, a fairy's wand, according to Eric Treuille and Ursula Ferrigno, co-authors of Ultimate Bread (DK Publishing, 1998). They write, "The French say that it is always best to buy two baguettes because one is always half eaten by the time it arrives home." Other shapes they describe include the traditional epi shape symbolizing a stalk of wheat; a bagel (meaning ring or bracelet in German), the eternal circle of life; Italian ciabatta is shaped and baked like its name, a flat "slipper"; Greek Daktyla, meaning "fingers," is shaped so that fingers of bread may be broken off for eating; Bolo-Rei, the rich Epiphany bread from Portugal is shaped in a crown and decorated with bright glazed fruit to symbolize the crowns of the Three Kings. And when form meets function the shape is both symbolic and practical witness the French couronne ("wreath"), with its center hole, making the loaf easy to carry "over the arm like a shopping basket," write Treuille and Ferrigno.

  • Elkort gives the origin of the phrase "a baker's dozen": "The practice of giving a customer 13 items when 12 were ordered originated in England where penalties were levied for short-weighting a customer. Baker's scales were often not accurate so the baker gave an extra loaf or roll to make sure he didn't break the law, and to also encourage the customer to continue patronizing his shop. In Egypt, bakers caught short-weighting their customers were nailed to the door of their shop by their ears."