Past Guest Speakers - 2006

History of the Table
A program by
Eva Eliscu
Restaurateur, instructor, collector of historical kitchen implements
January 14, 2006

Imagine dogs running around an ancient dining hall as people ate, or guests standing at attention, invited for the "privilege" of watching as the seated nobility leisurely supped (no wonder there were revolutions!). There's a lot more to ancient table customs than we could ever dream of, as our speaker Eva Eliscu will show, while she lays out her historical and colorful collection of historical table settings, along with related culture and customs.

Highlights of Ms. Eliscu's talk will include: The dining hall and the dining room, now and then; why the dinner plate is round; the purpose and placement of the napkin; history of bread and salt on the table; introduction of the fork; social background and seating arrangements; Talleyrand's lesson in serving beef; and food and poison -- why there were dogs in the dining hall.

Swedish-born Eva Eliscu, an avid enthusiast of table history and customs, teaches courses at the Feltre School, including the History of Tea, Coffee and Cocoa.


Chicago Foodways Roundtable Event
Culinary Beliefs and Practices of the Jains:
Vegetarians among Vegetarians

Presented by
Colleen Taylor Sen, Ph.D.
February 4, 2006
The only religion in the world that is unconditionally vegetarian is Jainism. Jainism developed in the 6th century BCE - its leading figure, Mahavira, was a contemporary of the Buddha - and today it has several million adherents, mainly in West and South India.

More a philosophy than a religion, the central doctrine of Jainism is that every organism, from single cell amoebas to human beings, has an eternal soul, called jiva. Alhough some souls are more powerful and complex than others, every organism is capable of achieving salvation and must be allowed to continue on its path. Thus any injury to any creature, however lowly, must be avoided. The cardinal rule of Jainism is ahimsa, translated as noninjury or nonviolence, which was adopted by Mahatma Gandhi.

In keeping with these beliefs, Jains not only do not eat meat, fish, or eggs, but also avoid a myriad of other foods, including those whose production kills the entire plant, harms microscopic organisms, or destroys the germs of future life. Most Jains avoid honey, fruits and vegetables with many little seeds e.g., (eggplant, figs), underground roots (potatoes, carrots, onions, etc.), mushrooms, and alcohol. Jain monks and nuns follow every more stringent restrictions. Some scholars believe that the practice of vegetarianism among Hindus originated with the Jains.

This talk will review the origins and history of Jainism and its philosophical tenets, with a focus on its dietary restrictions and prescriptions. It will also include a description of some typical recipes and meals, including a Jain banquet held in Chicago.

Dr. Colleen Taylor Sen is the author of Food Culture in India and many articles on Indian food. She is a regular contributor to the Oxford Food Symposia.


Valentine's Special: Bistro History, French Chocolate and Romance
Presented by
Daniel Young
Cookbook Author, Journalist
February 11, 2006
Roosevelt University
What's the difference between a bistro, a brasserie and a wine bar? Join us as author Daniel Young discusses the history and evolution of these French-inspired institutions. He will also introduce us to many of his favorite Parisian spots. And, in honor of Valentine's Day, Mr. Young will educate us on French bistro romance and French chocolate. Copies of his latest book, "Parisian Bistros, Brasseries and Wine Bars," will be available for signing, with all profits going to the Culinary Historians of Chicago. A small tasting, prepared from the author's recipes, will be offered.

Mr. Young is making his second appearance for our group, having previously lectured several years ago when he wrote "Made in Marseille." The author divides most of his time and meals between his hometown, New York City, where he was restaurant critic of the "Daily News," and Paris, where he wrote the "Paris Cafe Cookbook." He has written about French food and culture for Gourmet, Bon Appetit, Conde Nast Traveler and The New York Times.


The Real Food Revival
Presented by
Sherri Brooks Vinton
Culinary Historian
March 4, 2006
Ina's Restaurant
Local, sustainable, organic, fair trade. There are a lot of words being used these days to describe responsibly produced food. And a lot of accusations that such descriptors are just marketing hype designed to cash in on the precious sensibilities of the elite. But, as Sherri Brooks Vinton describes, real food isn't a modern phenomenon or eating fad, it isn't the domain of foodies or gourmets. Until only a handful of decades ago, real food -- food that is raised with great respect for natural resources, the eater and any animals in its care -- was the norm, not the exception. It is only in recent history, since about World War II, that agriculture has shifted away from this system and become increasingly consolidated and chemically dependent.

As Sherri illustrates in her book, "The Real Food Revival, Aisle by Aisle, Morsel by Morsel," finding real food doesn't have to be difficult or time consuming, it can be as simple as making informed choices about how to spend your grocery dollars. By paying attention to the "roots" of your food -- how and where it was produced, who grew it and how it got to you -- you can use your grocery dollars as a powerful tool for change. Join Sherri as we discuss how we can use our passion for good food to improve not only our dinner, but for a sustainable future.

Sherri is a Regional Governor of Slow Food and sits on the executive committee of the New York City chapter. She is also a member of Women Chefs and Restaurateurs, The James Beard Foundation, IACP, and Chefs Collaborative.


Chicago Foodways Roundtable & Culinary Historians of Chicago
Present:

World Pantry Talk and "Tour"
Presented by
Marilyn Pocius

March 25, 2006
Roosevelt University
Take an armchair tour to learn about some of the incredible resources available for cooks (or just foodies) in the Chicago area. Marilyn Pocius, author of A Cook's Guide to Chicago, 2nd edition just issued, leads the audience on a virtual culinary tour and gives practical advice on how to locate unusual ingredients as well as make use of the wonderful international pantry we have at our doorsteps. Chicago offers a delightful array of goodies, from shrimp chips and pomegranate molasses to tropical fruits and out-of-this-world vegetables The audience gets to sniff, taste and sample some of the ingredients and learns to tell a yam from a yucca. The lecture ends with a game. Pocius brings a big bowl of unusual produce and asks the audience to ID it. The first one to name the fruit or eggie gets to take it home.

Marilyn Pocius has been writing, cooking, and eating weird things all her life. From the University of Wisconsin she graduated with a B.A. in linquistics. She is also a chef-graduate of the Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago. Pocius does market tours, food demos and consulting for a variety of organizations, including Edible Chicago, her business with partner Julie Gibson Lay. She is a long-time member of Culinary Historians, Slow Food and International Association of Culinary Professionals.


The Culinary Historians of Chicago
Presents
The Culinary History of Highland Park,
or how the Nieto's forged a mecca on the North Shore

Presented by
Carlos and Debbie Nieto

April 15, 2006
at Ina's
1235 W. Randolph St.
Their friends and families thought they were loco when they said they wanted to open a fine-dining restaurant in Highland Park. But Carlos and Debbie Nieto persisted, raised the money, and in late 1981 opened Carlos' in a storefront, and dished out delicious contemporary French cuisine in the restaurant-thin suburb. Now, as the eatery approaches its 25th anniversary, the Nieto's can look back on their "baby" being consistently recognized as one of the Chicago area's finest and most popular restaurants. And other noteworthy restaurants have made the Highland Park area their home, thanks in part to the Nieto's pioneering efforts

Join us as the Nieto's talk about how they had a dream: how they conceptualized their restaurant; how they adapted French cuisine to their successful style; how the North Shore dining scene has evolved, and how they have managed to stay successful in the fickle restaurant world. Today, in addition to Carlos', the Nieto's also run Cafe Central, and The Freehling Room at Ravinia.

(Copies of the Nieto's newly published book "Carlos': Contemporary French Cuisine" will be available for purchase and signing, with all profits going to the Culinary Historians of Chicago.)


The Culinary Historians of Chicago & Chicago Foodways Roundtable
Present
A meal according to Jains: Vegetarians among Vegetarians
Arranged by
Colleen Taylor Sen, Ph.D.
April 29, 2006
at Village Hut
Glendale Heights
The only religion in the world that is unconditionally vegetarian is Jainism, one of the eight religions of India. Jainism developed what is now northern India in the 6th century BCE and today has several million adherents. The cardinal rule of Jainism is ahimsa, translated as noninjury or nonviolence, which was adopted by Mahatma Gandhi.

Jains not only do not eat meat, fish, or eggs; they also avoid a myriad of other foods, including those whose production kills the entire plant, harms microscopic organisms, or destroys the germs of future life. As a result, most Jains avoid honey, fruits and vegetables with many little seeds (e.g., eggplant, figs), underground roots (potatoes, carrots, etc.), mushrooms, garlic, onions, and alcohol. Nonetheless, Jain meals can be extremely delicious, since over the centuries cooks have learned to make the most of grains and vegetables.

This meal will feature typical Jain dishes from the western Indian state of Gujarat, home to many Jains. Rajan Chokshi, owner of Village Hut restaurant, will discuss the dishes.

Dr. Colleen Taylor Sen is the author of Food Culture in India and many articles on Indian food. She is a regular contributor to the Oxford Food Symposia.


"A Revolution in Eating - How the Quest for Food Shaped America"
Lecture and book signing - Presented by
James McWilliams, PhD

Culinary Historian, Author
May 13, 2006
Sugar, pork beer, corn, cider, scrapple and hoppin' John all became staples in the diet of colonial America. The ways Americans cultivated and prepared food and the values they attributed to it played an important role in shaping the identity of the newborn nation. Join us as James McWilliams leads us on a cultural and gastronomic tour of colonial America and tells us not only what early Americans ate, but also why they ate what they did. Dr. McWilliams will also be on hand to sign copies of his new book, "A Revolution in Eating," with all profits from book sales going to the Culinary Historians of Chicago.

Dr. McWilliams is assistant professor of history at Texas State University - San Marcos. His articles on food history have appeared in the Christian Science Monitor and the Texas Observer, and he is a past winner of the Whitehill Prize in Colonial History, awarded annually by the New England Quarterly, in which he has published extensively.

Cost of the lecture program is $10, $5 for students, and no charge for members.


CHC & Chicago Foodways Roundtable
presents:
Jewish Farmer Movement in South New Jersey Colonies c. 1882
A program by
Myra Albert

June 3, 2006
Beginning in the 1880s there was a philanthropic movement to return Jewish immigrants "back to the soil." By 1924 there were 75,000 Jewish farmers in the USA. Presenter Myra Albert recollects her Grandpa's poultry and produce farm in New Jersey and reads from her Mother's memoirs about this "healthier lifestyle." A fascinating look at a relatively unknown piece of American history. After the program, there will be a filmed documentary, "The Land was Theirs," which will be 55 minutes long. It's a true story of these early settlements in New Jersey.

Myra Albert is a professional lecturer whose topics include: "Wonderful World Fairs," "Travel to China, Thailand and Hong Kong," "The Costume Ball and Life Insurance Scandal of 1905," "What's happening to our museums?" "Icons of Art Deco" and "Jewish". She has given presentations at the Chicago Cultural Center, Frankfort Historical Society, Georgia Regional Library, Rotary Clubs, Oasis, The HALLMARK, various retirement homes, libraries and civic clubs.


"Cooking from the Heart of Spain"
Lecture and book signing - Presented by
Janet Mendel, Author

June 10, 2006
For the past 40 years, Chicago-born freelance journalist Janet Mendel has made her home in southern Spain. Join us for Ms. Mendel's talk and slide show highlighting the cuisine and history of Spain's La Mancha region. La Mancha's culinary roots are rural and pastoral but also have a rich Moorish and Sephardic heritage. Located in the center of the country, La Mancha is best known as Don Quixote's stomping ground. It is also saffron country, home of Manchego cheese and the world's most extensive vineyards.

Ms. Mendel will sign copies of her latest book, COOKING FROM THE HEART OF SPAIN (Morrow Cookbooks) with all profits going to the Culinary Historians of Chicago.

Janet Mendel is the author of several books about Spanish cuisine, including My Kitchen in Spain and Traditional Spanish Cooking, which won Britain's prestigious André Simon Award. Ms. Mendel also writes about food, travel and personalities for newspapers and magazines worldwide.


"The Regal History of Barbecue"
Lecture and book signing - Presented by
Authors Karen Adler and Judith Fertig
Weeknight Grilling with the BBQ Queens

July 15, 2006
Barbecue is to American cooking what the Royal Family is to British life--both hold the most regal of positions, and both are an indelible part of history. And who better to talk about barbecue than the rhinestone-tiara-wearing majesties themselves, the BBQ Queens -- Karen Adler and Judith Fertig. Join us as the royal duo light our intellectual fires with their smokey tales of BBQ's hallowed role in America's culinary evolution. They will also rib us with their searing humor.

Based in Kansas City, Karen Adler and Judith Fertig teach the art of barbecue in classes and on TV across the country. The two have authored several books on the subject, including The BBQ Queens' Big Book of Barbecue (Harvard Common Press 2005), which is all about grilling, smoking, rotisserie, planking, and traditional barbecue. Ms. Adler is such a barbecue afficionado that she started her own company, Pig Out Publications, featuring more than 250 books on BBQ and Grilling. She has also been a spokesperson for the National Barbecue Association. Ms. Fertig's articles have appeared in such publications as The New York Times, Cooking Light, Saveur and Better Homes & Gardens.WEEKNIGHT GRILLING WITH THE BBQ QUEENS (Harvard Common Press) with all profits going to the Culinary Historians of Chicago. A tasting of one of the book's recipes will be served. CLICK HERE

AND FOR SOME EXTRA ZING - A DASH OF AVOCADO OIL
And what goes better with a barbecue tasting than an avocado oil tasting? (Actually, what doesn't go well with BBQ?) Lucky us -- on hand today will be New Zealand avocado impresario Chris Nathan, founder & CEO of Olivado Gourmet Foods, who will provide a sampling of Olivado Gold Brand Infused Avocado Oils (lemon, rosemary, basil, chili and bell pepper). Mr. Nathan will hand out bottles of the oil to winners of our free raffle, so make sure you pick up your lucky number at registration.


From Old World to New World:
The Evolution of Cheese in America
Presented by
Daniel Sirko, Resident Fromager
Pastoral Artisan Cheese, Bread and Wine, Chicago

August 26, 2006
Join us as we explore the roots of U.S. cheese making and its evolution from mass produced imitations of European classics to a vibrant, creative and inventive artisan industry. This U.S. industry that has come into its own; gaining worldwide acclaim and even besting some of those same European classics in prestigious competitions.

Enjoy Daniel Sirko's command of cheese's culinary history in America along with a sampling of some of this country's finest creations.

Daniel Sirko is the resident Fromager at Pastoral Artisan Cheese, Bread & Wine, 2945 N. Broadway, Chicago (www.pastoralartisan.com). He has served as a judge at the American Cheese Society Annual Championships and is a frequently consulted industry expert and educator on all matters relating to cheese. A graduate of Michigan State University, Mr. Sirko was a founding manager of Fox & Obel and his career has encompassed positions with some of Chicago's best known gourmet purveyors.


"Is Grass-Fed Beef the New Health Food"
Bill Kurtis

September 16, 2006
Award-winning broadcaster and documentary host and cattle rancher Bill Kurtis will keynote, with a slice of Chicago's meat history by Bruce Kraig, PhD, president, Culinary Historians of Chicago


Lunch Lessons: (or, Are We Killing Our Kids?)
Presented by
Ann Cooper
October 14, 2006
"Ann Cooper is on the front lines, cooking wholesome, real food in our school cafeterias. By emphasizing seasonal, local and sustainably grown food, she's revolutionizing the way we think about school lunch in this country."
--Alice Waters, Chez Panisse Foundation
Remember how simple school lunches used to be? You'd have something from every major food group and run around the playground for awhile, most of us looking and feeling fine. But, today, it's not so simple. Schools are actually feeding the American childhood obesity and malnutrition crises. While many parents rely on the USDA-approved National School Lunch program to provide their children with balanced meals, most school cafeterias serve a veritable buffet of processed, fried, and sugary foods instead. And, although many schools have attempted to improve, they are still not measuring up: 78% of the schools in America do not meet the USDA's nutritional guidelines.

Our children won't live as long as our generation; parental activism is crucial in bringing about change, says Chef Ann Cooper who has emerged as one of the nation's most influential and most respected advocates for changing how our kids eat. In fact, she is somewhat of a renegade lunch lady, Working closely with leaders like Alice Waters, she has worked to transform cafeterias into culinary classrooms for students. and Time Magazine recently reported on the major work she is doing.

In her new book, LUNCH LESSONS/Changing the Way We Feed Our Children (with coauthor Lisa Holmes), Chef Cooper spells out how parents and school employees can help instill healthy habits in children. She explains the basics of good childhood nutrition and suggests recipes for breakfast, snacks, and lunch. Copies of the book will be available for purchase and signing, with all profits going to fund the Culinary Historians of Chicago.


Sweet and Savory Recollections
Presented by
Dorie Greenspan - Author, Baking Guru
November 4, 2006
Join us as one of America's most beloved and award winning bakers shares with us her own culinary history and opens her oven door for a a warming peek at some of the most accomplished names in the business: Julia Child, French pastry icon Pierre Hermé, and stellar chefs Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and Daniel Boulud. Dorie will recall how she started in her parent's kitchen by burning it down, and ditched her doctorate in gerontology to get into baking. She'll give a snapshot of 20 years of changes in the kitchen, in dessert styles and in America. Dorie will also sign copies of her just published book, Baking, from my home to yours, a collection of her personal favorite recipes. All profits from book sales will fund the Culinary Historians of Chicago.

Dorie Greenspan has written or co-written nine cookbooks, including Baking with Julia, which won both a James Beard Award and an IACP Award; Desserts by Pierre Hermé, which was named IACP Cookbook of the Year; and Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé, which won the Gourmand World Cookbook Award for the best English-language cookbook. She created many recipes for The All-New Joy of Cooking and is a special correspondent for Bon Apétit. Her articles have also appeared in The New York Times. Dorie divides her time between her homes in New York and Paris.


Talking Turkey
Presented by
Diane Morgan, Author, Teacher
November 11, 2006
So, you think you really know all about Thanksgiving history and tradition? Just wait 'til Diane Morgan twists your drumstick with her take on "Turkey Day." She has been involved in the world of food for more than 20 years. Diane spent six years in Chicago as a caterer and chef for an executive dining room. Diane moved to the Pacific Northwest, settling in Portland, where she shifted to teaching cooking classes and food writing. She has authored eleven cookbooks, including "The Thanksgiving Table," which she will be signing.

Diane has been a regular contributor to the Los Angeles Times food section and has written for Bon Appetit and Cooking Light. She has appeared on the Today Show, ABC World News Now, and The TV Food Network.


Something to Wine About
Presented by
Alpana Singh
Master Sommelier, Television Host, Author
December 2, 2006
Alpana Singh is Chicago's wine-and-dine rock star and she's making her own culinary history: as host of the Emmy Award winning PBS-TV program "Check Please," and profiled in Bon Apetit ("Wine and Spirits Professional of the Year 2006"), Gourmet, The New York Times, Chicago Tribune, and Wine Spectator as the youngest woman ever to earn the title of Master Sommelier. Last year Ms. Singh was appointed by restaurateur Rich Melman as Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, Inc.'s Director of Wine and Spirits.

Now, at age 30, she has written her first book, Alpana Pours...about being a woman, loving wine and having great relationships (co-authored by Robert Scarola, who is also the author of "Make Mine Medium Rare: A Diner's Survival Guide.")

Come join in our holiday toast as Alpana uncorks her wit and gives us a bubbly view of men/women gender wine preferences, picking wines, and her professional climb to becoming a Master Sommelier. She will also read from her book, and sign copies. (Profits from book sales help fund the Culinary Historians of Chicago.) Paired with Alpana's talk will be holiday cookies baked by our members.