Past Guest Speakers - 2007

A Tale of Turkey and a Toast to Olive Oil
Presented by
Didem Tapban
Proprietor, Ta-ze Olives and Olive Oils

January 27, 2007

Didem Tapban may be described as an emissary of Turkey and a missionary of its olive oil. So passionate is this transplanted Istanbul native about her country and its cuisine, that she gave up her comfortable retail job in Chicago to anoint our town with her own olive oil boutique -- Ta-ze -- in the North Bridge Shopping Mall on Michigan Avenue. "A lot of people thought I was crazy," she said. Now in its third year and thriving, the shop is Chicago's first store devoted almost exclusively to olives and their "fruit juice," as Didem calls the oil. The shop, which she owns with her husband, Seza, represents a cooperative union of 27,000 Turkish olive oil producers and olive farmers in Turkey's Aegean region, which Didem refers to as the "Riviera of olive trees."

Come join us as Didem recounts growing up in Turkey where her family had olive trees in their backyard and she had olives, or olive paste every morning along with the traditional Turkish breakfast of tomatoes, cucumbers, feta, toast, and tea. She will talk about Turkish culture, the myriad health benefits of olive oil and will finish converting us with a taste of Turkey and its seductive "fruit juice."


Chef Sings the Blues, Chicago Style
Presented by
Jason Girard
Chef, Author, Blues and Jazz Maven

February 10, 2007
Chicago's culinary traditions, music and culture have been greatly influenced by southern African Americans who long ago settled in our city. In his book, "The Blues Highway Cookbook," Chef Jason Girard combines the recipes and history of the Great Migration, taking readers on a culinary and historical journey down Highway 61. Join us as Chef Girard tells this tasty saga.

Chef Girard gained his historical knowledge during his long association with the Grammy-winning guitarist Buddy Guy. It was Guy who years ago tapped Girard to help him revamp Buddy Guy's Legend, his namesake South Loop blues club.

While studying the food of the South, Girard became a student of blues music and culture. He determined that a Highway 61 menu would be the best fit for the world-famous nightclub. Highway 61 (a.k.a. "The Blues Highway"), which stretches more than 1400 miles along the banks of the Mississippi River, connects New Orleans to Baton Rouge, the Mississippi Delta, Memphis, St. Louis and points north. It was an important route on the journey to Chicago and was traveled by thousands of African-Americans, including some of the world's most influential musicians, during the Great Migration.

During Girard's nine-year tenure, the food at Legends was featured by dozens of international media outlets (including CBS, CNN, BET, New Yorker magazine, Gourmet magazine and the TV Food Network). Buddy Guy's Legends gained a reputation, not only as one of the world's most popular live music venues, but one of the best Cajun, Creole and soul food restaurants in the country.

Copies of Chef Girard's book will be available for purchase and signing, along with a tasting of his delectable pulled pork and cole slaw.


Changes in Food Culture and a Perspective on James Beard
Presented by
Mitchell Davis
Author, "Kitchen Sense" and
VP and Director of Communications, James Beard Foundation, New York

March 17, 2007
Food culture is changing, evolving, fusing as never before. Join as Mitchell Davis gives his culinary perspective covering the last 20 years. We'll see how this dynamism affects cookbooks, including the one he has just written, "Kitchen Sense." for the home cook. Mr. Davis will also give the history of the James Beard Foundation which has been at the forefront of America's culinary revolution for more than 20 years. The Foundation was established in honor of James Beard, the late cooking teacher, journalist, and food consultant who is widely considered the father of American gastronomy.

Besides serving in an executive capacity at the Foundation, Mr. Davis is also an adjunct professor and Ph.D. candidate in New York University's food studies program. He is the author of "The Mensch Chef" and "Cook Something", the co-writer of "Foie Gras" and a contributor to magazines such as GQ and Food & Wine.

Food samples from "Kitchen Sense" will be served, and copies will be available for purchase and signing, with all profits going to fund the Culinary Historians of Chicago.


An Exploration of the Best and Worst of Historical Recipes
Presented by
Anne Willan
Author, TV-host and proprietor of La Varenne Cooking School, Burgundy, France
April 14, 2007
We're not talking about the foods of our grandparents today; how about the dishes of our great, great grandparents--and long before them? Come join us as Anne Willan, one of the world's most respected culinary authorities, dishes out the joys and horrors of ancient recipes--how some can be adapted to work beautifully in a modern kitchen, while others, perhaps should be prepared solely for our enemies. We will taste samplings of potted salmon and a chocolate cream concoction, flavored with lemon and rosemary, both recipes from the 1700s that are still palate pleasers. And we will view Ms. Willan's powerpoint with colorful depictions of historical recipes, some of which, alas, no longer pass muster--even with mustard! She will also recount the culture and the history surrounding the recipes, and talk about her own joyful research: "I'm living in another world right now, a world of wood-fired bread ovens, mortars and pestles, clockwork spits and warm milk from the cow."

British born Anne Willan earned a master's degree in economics from Cambridge University before following her love of cooking to study at Cordon Bleu in London and ultimately open La Varenne cooking school in Paris in 1975. The school is now located in her 17th-century Chateau du Fey in Burgundy. Ms. Willan has written more than a dozen cookbooks which have been translated into more than 20 languages. She hosted a 26-part PBS cooking series in the 1990s, and in 2000, Bon Appetit named her cooking teacher of the year. She has written for Gourmet, The Washington Post, and Travel and Leisure. She is a past president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals and is a founder and trustee of COPIA (The American Center for Wine, Food and The Arts). An avid culinary historian, Ms. Willan and her husband, economist Mark Cherniavsky, have amassed a distinguished collection of antiquarian cookbooks.


Sensory Delights of the French Garden
Presented by
Patricia Wells
Journalist, Author and Teacher
May 5, 2007
Patricia Wells is considered among the most prominent American authorities on French food. For more than 20 years, she has divided her time between Paris and Chanteduc, her farmhouse in northern Provence. From there, she visits farmers and chefs, shopkeepers and bakers, sampling their wares and learning their secrets. Join us as Ms. Wells takes us on a culinary and cultural tour of France, focusing on the bounty of flavorful French vegetables and the impassioned farmers who grow them as well as the inspired chefs who so beautifully serve them. Her latest book, Vegetable Harvest ($34.95), captures the legacy of the bounty. Ms. Wells will be signing copies of her book, and all profits from the sales will be used to fund the Culinary Historians of Chicago.

Biographical notes: Patricia Wells is the restaurant critic for the International Herald Tribune in Paris, and the author of several best-selling cookbooks, including The Paris Cookbook, The Food Lover's Guide to Paris, The Food Lover's Guide to France, Bistro Cooking and Patricia Wells at Home in Provence. She also conducts cooking programs in France. A native of Wisconsin, Patricia was a food writer and editor for The New York Times. Patricia and her husband, Walter, make their home in France.


Mastering the Grill Garden
Presented by
Authors David Joachim and Andy Schloss
June 23, 2007
You're about to get grilled:
Did you know that In 1915, when Americans were happily driving Model T automobiles made with wood, Henry Ford was turning the wood scraps into another profitable business: charcoal briquettes.

In 1952, about 22 miles northwest of Chicago, an avid griller name George Stephen revolutionized grilling by adding one simple improvement to existing designs: a lid. Stephen cut a metal buoy in half to create the dome-shaped cooker and the Weber kettle grill was born.

Grilling and barbecuing are two distinct cooking methods. Yet, historically, Americans have lumped the two together and boondoggled the nature of live-fire cooking. Authors David Joachim and Andrew Schloss untangle the confusion as they approach the history of outdoor cooking from the perspective of science and believe in the power of asking "why?" Why do you brine a certain cut of meat but marinate another? Why do meats develop a better crust when grilled over charcoal than when grilled over gas? Why should meat be allowed to rest after grilling? Copies of their new book, "Mastering the Grill" will be available for purchase and signing, with all profits going to fund the Culinary Historians of Chicago.

Biographical notes: A frequent guest on radio and TV, David Joachim has authored, edited or collaborated on more than 30 cookbooks, including the award-winning The Food Substitutions Bible and The New York Times bestseller, A Man A Can A Grill. His "A Man, A Can..." series of books has sold more than 1 million copies. His website is www.davejoachim.com Andrew Schloss has also appeared frequently on radio and TV. A past president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals, he has authored a dozen cookbooks, including Fifty Ways to Cook Most Everything One-Pot Cakes, Cooking with Three Ingredients, and Almost From Scratch. A former chef, his articles have appeared in Bon Appetit, and Family Circle, Chicago Tribune, The Philadelphia Inquirer, The Washington Post, and the San Francisco Chronicle.


Predecessor to M.F.K. Fisher - Michigan's Della Lutes
Presented by
Robin Mather Jenkins
Author and Food Writer, Chicago Tribune
July 28, 2007
Most of us have heard of the great literary food icon, M.F.K. Fisher. But long before Ms. Fisher, there was another literary food master, Della Lutes. Born in 1872 in Jackson, Michigan, Ms. Lutes relied on her Michigan roots to become one of the most widely read cookbook authors of her time. She used her immensely popular columns that appeared in the Atlantic Monthly as a basis for her best-selling The Country Kitchen, first published in 1936. Readers delighted in her poignant and often humorous stories of life in late nineteenth-century rural Michigan, complete with descriptions of authentic country folks, reflections on family and community events, and especially, details of sharing meals together that recapture warm childhood memories. Scattered throughout her writing are colorful examples of regional cuisine.

Join us as Chicago Tribune food writer, and Michigan native, Robin Mather Jenkins provides a portrait of her beloved Della Lutes and her legacy in culinary history.

Before joining the Tribune three years ago, Ms. Jenkins served as food editor at the Detroit News, senior writer at Cooking Light magazine and, for a short time, ran a goat cheese dairy that she started in Batesville, Mississippi. In 1995, she also wrote the first book on genetically modified crops and livestock and sustainable agriculture aimed at the mass market reader; A Garden of Unearthly Delights: Bioengineering and the Future of Food.

Ms. Jenkins is currently working on a book about Della Lutes.


Groovin' over Greektown
Presented by
Author Alexa Ganakos
August 25, 2007
Alexa Ganakos is the author of the book, Greektown Chicago: Its History. Its Recipes. This book is a blend like no other, combining food, history and photographs. It portrays the daily lives and aspirations of Greektown immigrants and reflections of an enduring community with a rich cultural history which still thrives today. Alexa is also the successful publisher and executive editor of GreekCircle magazine. Since its inception in 2001, GreekCircle is dedicated to celebrating Greek culture and heritage throughout the greater Greek American community. She has also spent over 20 years working in the advertising/direct marketing industry. Alexa is a graduate of Northwestern University's School of Communications.

Proud of her Greek heritage, she has served on the parish council of the Annunciation Greek Orthodox Cathedral, as President of the Professionals of the Annunciation Cathedral, as a board member and historian of the Hellenic Professional Society of Illinois, as a member of the Hellenic American Women's Council, as a member of the Greek Women's University Club, and program and event committee member of the Hellenic Museum and Cultural Center.


The Culinary Historians of Chicago
and

Present
Tales of the Berghoff
Presented by
Jan and Carlyn Berghoff, with Nancy Ross Ryan
October 27, 2007
Join us for one of our most special occasions ever when the Berghoff family hosts us, and tells us about their more than 100-year history in Chicago, which is truly Chicago's History. They will also be signing copies of their just-published "The Berghoff Family Cookbook," loaded with lore and their classic recipes - Now you too can make your own classic Berghoff creamed spinach, schnitzel and strudel!
Program Outline
Registration and welcome refreshments:
Herb cheesecake with crackers and assorted fruits
Bruce Kraig, PhD, president Culinary Historians of Chicago, introductory remarks
Jan & Carlyn Berghoff on Berghoff family history
Nancy Ross Ryan, on writing The Berghoff Family Cookbook
Q&A, followed by book signing and hors d'oeuvres reception:
Mini Reubens - Corned beef on rye with Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing, toasted in a Panini press until crispy
Noon Luncheon
Butternut squash soup and duck pot stickers, petit salad of baby greens
Chicken Schnitzel, with grilled lemons and chilled asparagus salad; Saurbraten with sweet and sour gravy; Herb-crusted filet of salmon on a bed of wilted spinach with whole grain mustard sauce
Herbed spaetzle, braised cabbage and German fried potatoes
Mini dessert platters - apple strudel, Black Forest cake bites, white chocolate mousse spoons, and créme brulee strawberries
Parting gift of rootbeer cheesecake lollipops

A Cake Walk Through Southern History
Presented by
Nancie McDermott
Food Writer, Cookbook Author, Teacher
November 17, 2007
Author Nancie McDermott is letting her roots show. Renowned for her recipes and writings on the cuisines and culture of Southeast Asia, where she spent three years as a Peace Corps volunteer, McDermott's latest volume is truly the frosting on her culinary cake. Ms. McDermott brings us down home to her beloved south for "Southern Cakes," which layers on a luscious bounty of coconut cakes, pound cakes, jelly cakes, fruitcakes and classics like Lady Baltimore Cake, and Thirteen-layer Cake. (And of course we'll sample a few of these beauties!) But, since we are, after all, a serious organization, we must remember that the main course of our program will be the historical context of these mainstays of American culinary tradition. However, due to the nature of the subject matter, drooling will be tolerated as Ms. McDermott sashays through a sweet synopsis of Southern cakes from colonial times to the present. Warning: Both Ms. McDermott's book and her powerpoint presentation contain full-frontal portraits of her subject matter and has caused extreme cake arousal in many who have viewed it. The Culinary Historians of Chicago assumes no responsibility for any gustatory effect this program may have on attendees.

Nancie McDermott's books include several best sellers on Thai cooking, including "Real Thai" and "The Curry Book." Her feature stories and recipes have appeared in Bon Appetit, Cooks' Illustrated, Food and Wine, and the Chicago Tribune. Nancie lives in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, with her husband, her two daughters and her cake pans.


Smothered Southern Foods
Presented by
Wilbert Jones
Cookbook Author
December 8, 2007
Here's what Art Smith, best selling author of "Back to the Table," and personal chef to Oprah Winfrey, has to say about our speaker for today: "When I was growing up in the South, I remember seeing so many wonderful foods on our family dinner table. Some of my favorite foods were smothered dishes, especially smothered pork chops - cut thin, browned in a pan, then we would add some flour and water to the reserved juices to make a wonderful sauce served over white rice. Wilbert Jones, my beloved culinary friend for many years, has brought back the art of smothering."


Photo by Antoinette Fields-Simpson

Wilbert regaled us with the history of smothered food, along with his own perspective on the South's culinary legacy. A native of Mississippi, Wilbert, said his inspiration for cooking came from his grandmother, Ruth Randle, who reportedly was one of the best cooks in the state. He also signed copies of his new book on "smothering." Wilbert is president of Healthy Concepts, Inc, a Chicago-based food and beverage development company. Wilbert previously was a food scientist at Kraft Foods, and does freelance food writing.